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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Arcinive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/carvingservingOOIincrich 


Carving  and  Serving 


BY 


MRS.  D.  A.  LINCOLN 

AUTHOR    OF    "THE    BOSTON    COOK    BOOK" 


*  »    1 ;  1 '  ;  5 


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■>■>■>   >  J 


BOSTON 

ROBERTS    BROTHERS 

1891 


r  X  IS ! 


:IFT 


Copyright,  1886, 
By  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln. 


John  Wilson  and  Son,  Cambridge. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

GENERAL  DIRECTIONS 7 

SPECIAL  DIRECTIONS 15 

Tip  of  the  Sirloin,  or  Rib  Roast 15 

Sirloin  Roast 16 

The  back  of  the  Rump 16 

Fillet  of  Beef  or  Tenderloin 17 

Round  of  Beef,  Fillet  of  Veal,  or  Fricandeau 

of  Veal 17 

Beefsteak 18 

Leg  of  Mutton  or  Lamb,  or  Knuckle  of  Veal  .  19 

Leg  of  Venison 20 

Saddle  of  Mutton 20 

Saddle  of  Venison 21 

Haunch  of  Venison  or  Mutton 21 

Loin  of  Mutton,  Lamb,  Veal,  Pork,  or  Venison  22 

Shoulder  of  Mutton  or  Veal 22 

Forequarter  of  Lamb  or  Veal 23 

Neck  of  Veal 24 

Breast  of  Veal 24 

Calf's  Head .  25 

Roast  Pig 25 

Ham 26 

Tongue 27 


417864 


IV  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Corned  Beef 27 

Chartreuse,  or  Pressed  Meat 28 

To  CUT  UP  A  Chicken  for  a  Stew  or  Fricassee  28 

Boiled  Fowl  or  Turkey    . 30 

Broiled  Chicken 32 

Roast  Turkey 33 

Roast  Goose 35 

Roast  Duck 36 

Pigeons 37 

Partridges 37 

Larded  Grouse 38 

Rabbit 38 

Sweetbreads,  Chops,  and  Cutlets 39 

Fish 39 

Baked  Fish 40 

Scalloped  Dishes,  Meat  Pies,  Entrees,  Etc.  .     .  41 

Salads 42 

Vegetables 42 

Soups 43 

Tea  and  Coffee 43 

Pies 44 

Puddings 45 

Moulds  of  Pudding,  Creams,  Charlotte  Russe, 

Ice-Cream,  Etc 45 

Fruit  and  Nuts 46 

The  Thickness  of  Slices ^7 

Utensils  for  Carving  and  Serving 48 

Last  but  not  Least 52 


CARVING    AND    SERVING. 


GENERAL  DIRECTIONS. 

"  Do  you  teach  your  pupils  how  to  carve  ? " 

"Please  give  us  a  lecture  on  carving;  my  husband 
says  he  will  come  if  you  will." 

I  have  been  so  frequently  addressed  in  this  way 
that  I  have  decided  to  publish  a  manual  on  the  Art 
of  Carving.  Instruction  in  this  art  cannot  be  given 
at  a  lecture  with  any  profit  to  my  pupils  or  satisfac- 
tion to  myself.  One  cannot  learn  by  simply  seeing  a 
person  carve  a  few  times.  As  much  as  any  other  art, 
it  requires  study ;  and  success  is  not  attainable  with- 
out much  practice.  There  are  certain  rules  which 
should  be  thoroughly  understood ;  if  followed  faith- 
fully in  daily  practice,  they  will  help  more  than  mere 
observation. 

This  manual  is  not  offered  as  a  guide  for  special 
occasions,  company  dinners,  etc.,  nor  for  those  whose 
experience  renders  it  unnecessary,  or  whose  means 
allow  them  to  employ  one  skilled  in  the  art.  But  it 
is  earnestly  hoped  that  the  suggestions  here  offered 
will  aid  those  who  desire,  at  their  own  table  in  every- 


8  ^   CAttVmG  AND  ^^ERVING. 

day  lietne  iife,  id  accfaire^  that  ease  and  perfection  of 
manner  which,  however  suddenly  it  may  be  confronted 
with  obstacles,  will  be  equal  to  every  occasion. 

Printed  rules  for  carving  are  usually  accompanied 
with  cuts  showing  the  position  of  the  joint  or  fowl  on 
the  platter,  and  having  lines  indicating  the  method  of 
cutting.  But  this  will  not  be  attempted  in  this  man- 
ual, as  such  illustrations  seldom  prove  helpful ;  for 
the  actual  thing  before  us  bears  faint  resemblance  to 
the  pictures,  which  give  us  only  the  surface,  with  no 
hint  of  what  may  be  inside. 

It  is  comparatively  a  slight  matter  to  carve  a  solid 
mass  of  lean  meat.  It  is  the  bones,  tough  gristle,  and 
tendons,  that  interfere  with  the  easy  progress  of  the 
knife.  To  expect  any  one  to  carve  well  without  any 
conception  of  the  internal  structure  of  what  may  be 
placed  before  him  is  as  absurd  as  to  expect  one  to 
amputate  a  limb  successfully  who  has  no  knowledge 
of  human  anatomy. 

Some  notion  of  the  relative  position  of  bones,  joints, 
fat,  tough  and  tender  muscles,  is  the  first  requisite  to 
good  carving.  All  agree  that  skill  in  carving  may  be 
acquired  by  practice ;  and  so  it  may.  Any  one  can 
divide  a  joint  if  he  cut  and  hack  at  it  long  enough, 
and  so  learn  after  a  time  just  where  to  make  the 
right  cut.  But  a  more  satisfactory  way  is  to  make  a 
careful  study  before  the  material  is  cooked,  and  thus 
learn  the  exact  position  of  every  joint,  bone,  and 
muscle.  Become  familiar  with  a  shoulder  or  a  leg 
of  mutton ;  locate  the  joints  by  moving  the  bones  in 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  9 

the  joints,  or  by  cutting  it  into  sections,  some  time 
when  it  is  to  be  used  for  a  stew.  Or  remove  the  bone 
in  the  leg  by  scraping  the  meat  away  at  either  end. 
Learn  to  distinguish  the  different  cuts  of  meat.  The 
best  way  to  learn  about  carving  poultry  and  game  is 
to  cut  them  up  for  a  stew  or  fricassee,  provided  care 
be  taken  not  to  chop  them,  but  to  disjoint  them 
skilfully. 

Then,  when  you  attempt  to  carve,  do  the  best  you 
can  every  time.  Never  allow  yourself  to  be  careless 
about  it,  even  should  the  only  spectators  be  your  wife 
and  children.  But  do  not  make  your  first  effort  in 
the  art  at  a  company  dinner.  Every  lady  should 
learn  the  art.  There  is  no  reason  why  she  may  not 
excel  in  it,  as  she  has  every  opportunity  to  study  the 
joint  or  fowl  before  cooking.  Strength  is  not  re- 
quired, so  much  as  neatness  and  care.  A  firm,  steady 
hand,  a  cool,  collected  manner,  and  confidence  in  one's 
ability  will  help  greatly.  Children  also  should  be 
taught  this  accomplishment,  and  should  be  taught  it 
as  soon  as  they  can  handle  a  knife  safely.  If  parents 
would  allow  the  children  to  share  their  duties  at  the 
daily  family  table,  and  occasionally  when  company  is 
present,  a  graceful  manner  would  soon  be  acquired. 
When  called  upon  to  preside  over  their  own  homes 
there  would  less  frequently  be  heard  the  apology, 
"  Father  always  carved  at  home,  and  I  have  had  no 
practice."  The  only  recollection  that  I  now  have  of 
a  dinner  at  a  friend's  some  years  ago  is  the  easy  and 
skilful  way  a  young  son  of  my  hostess  presided  at  the 


10  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

head  of  the  table,  while  the  father  occupied  the  place 
of  guest  at  the  mother's  right  hand. 

One  must  learn  first  of  all  to  carve  neatly,  without 
scattering  crumbs  or  splashing  gravy  over  the  cloth 
or  platter ;  also  to  cut  straight,  uniform  slices.'  This 
may  seem  an  easy  matter;  but  do  we  often  see  pressed 
beef,  tongue,  or  even  bread  cut  as  it  should  be? 
Be  careful  to  divide  the  material  in  such  a  manner 
that  each  person  may  be  served  equally  well.  Have 
you  never  received  all  flank,  or  a  hard  dry  wing,  while 
another  guest  had  all  tenderloin,  or  the  second  joint  ? 
After  a  little  experience  you  can  easily  distinguish 
between  the  choice  portions  and  the  inferior.  Lay 
each  portion  on  the  plate  with  the  browned  or  best 
side  up.  Keep  it  compact,  not  mussy ;  and  serve  a 
good  portion  of  meat,  not  a  bone  with  hardly  any 
meat  on  it.  After  all  are  served,  the  portion  on  the 
platter  should  not  be  left  jagged,  rough,  and  sprawl- 
ing, but  should  look  inviting  enough  to  tempt  one  to 
desire  a  second  portion. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  carve  in  such  a  way  as  to 
get  the  best  effect.  A  nice  joint  is  often  made  less 
inviting  from  having  been  cut  with  the  grain,  while 
meat  of  rather  poor  quality  is  made  more  tender  and 
palatable  if  divided  across  the  grain.  Where  the 
whole  of  the  joint  is  not  required,  learn  to  carve 
economically,  that  it  may  be  left  in  good  shape  for 
another  dinner. 

After  you  have  learned  to  do  the  simplest  work 
neatly    and    gracefully,    much    painstaking   will   be 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  11 

necessary  in  acquiring  the  power  to  accomplish  with 
elegance  the  more  difficult  tasks.  For  to  reach  the 
highest  degree  of  excellence  in  the  art,  one  must  be 
able  to  carve  the  most  difficult  joint  with  perfect 
skill  and  ease. 

But  after  all  this  study  and  a  great  amount  of 
practice  failure  often  happens,  and  blame  is  laid 
upon  the  carver  which  really  belongs  to  some  other 
person,  —  the  butcher,  the  cook,  the  table-girl,  or  the 
guest.  Not  all  men  who  sell  meat  know  or  practise 
the  best  way  of  cutting  up  meat.  Much  may  be  done 
by  the  butcher  and  by  the  cook  to  facilitate  the  work 
of  the  carver.  These  helps  will  be  noticed  more  par- 
ticularly under  the  head  of  special  dishes. 

An  essential  aid  to  easy  carving,  and  one  often 
overlooked,  is  that  the  platter  be  large  enough  to 
hold  not  merely  the  joint  or  fowl  while  whole,  but 
also  the  several  portions  as  they  are  detached. 

The  joint  should  be  placed  in  the  middle  of  the 
platter,  in  the  position  indicated  under  special  direc- 
tions. There  should  be  sufficient  space  on  either  side 
for  the  portions  of  meat  as  they  are  carved ;  that  is, 
space  on  the  bottom,  none  of  the  slices  being  allowed 
to  hang  over  the  edge  of  the  dish.  If  necessary,  pro- 
vide an  extra  dish.  The  persistency  with  which  some 
housekeepers  cling  to  a  small  dish  for  fear  the  meat 
will  look  lost  on  a  larger  one  often  makes  successful 
carving  impossible. 

The  platter  should  be  placed  near  the  carver,  that 
he  may  easily  reach  any  part  of  the  joint. 


12  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 

The  cook  should  see  that  all  skewers,  strings,  etc., 
be  removed  before  sending  the  meat  or  fish  to  the 
table.  It  is  extremely  awkward  to  find  one's  knife 
impeded  by  a  bit  of  twine. 

The  carver  may  stand  or  sit,  as  suits  his  con- 
venience. Anything  that  is  done  easily  is  generally 
done  gracefully,  but  when  one  works  at  a  disadvan- 
tage awkwardness  is  always  the  result. 

A  very  important  matter  is  the  condition  of  the 
knife.  It  should  have  a  handle  easy  to  grasp,  a  long, 
thin,  sharp,  pointed  blade,  and  be  of  a  size  adapted  to 
the  article  to  be  carved  and  to  the  person  using  it. 
A  lady  or  a  child  will  prefer  a  small  knife.  Be  as 
particular  to  have  the  knife  sharp  as  to  have  it  bright 
and  clean  ;  and  always  sharpen  it  before  announcing 
the  dinner.  It  is  very  annoying  for  a  person  to  be 
obliged  to  wait  and  sharpen  the  knife,  or  to  turn  the 
meat  round  to  get  it  into  the  right  position.  Never 
allow  a  carving-knife  to  be  used  to  cut  bread,  or  for 
any  other  than  its  legitimate  purpose. 

The  fork  should  be  strong,  with  long  tines,  and 
should  have  a  guard. 

Place  the  fork  deep  enough  in  the  meat  so  that  you 
can  hold  it  firmly  in  position.  Hold  the  knife  and 
fork  in  an  easy,  natural  way.  Many  persons  grasp 
the  fork  as  if  it  were  a  dagger,  and  stab  it  into  the 
meat ;  but  such  a  display  of  force  is  unnecessary  and 
clownish.  The  hand  should  be  over  the  handle  of  the 
fork,  the  palm  down,  and  the  forefinger  extended. 

Do   not   appear  to   make   hard   work   of   carving. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  13 

Avoid  all  scowling  or  contortion  of  the  mouth  if  a 
difficult  spot  be  touched.  Don't  let  your  countenance 
betray  the  toughness  of  the  joint  or  your  own  lack  of 
skill.  Work  slowly  but  skilfully,  and  thus  avoid  the 
danger  of  landing  the  joint  in  your  neighbor's  lap. 

Do  not  be  guilty  of  the  discourtesy  of  asking  each 
guest,  before  you  begin  to  carve,  to  choose  between 
roast  lamb  and  warmed-over  beef,  or  between  pie  and 
pudding,  or  whatever  you  may  have,  and  thus  cause 
a  guest  who  may  have  chosen  the  lamb  or  the  pie  the 
discomfort  of  knowing  that  it  has  been  cut  solely  for 
her.  Such  economy  may  be  excusable  in  the  privacy 
of  one's  own  family,  but  not  in  the  presence  of  in- 
vited guests.  First  divide  or  carve  what  you  have  to 
serve,  and  then  offer  the  choice  to  your  guests. 

"  To  carve  and  serve  decently  and  in  good  order  " 
is  indeed  mainly  the  duty  of  the  host ;  but  there  is 
sometimes  an  unfortunate  lack  of  skill  on  the  part  of 
the  hostess  in  her  share  of  the  serving.  A  certain 
pride  is  permitted  to  her,  and  is  expected  of  her,  in 
serving  neatly  her  tea,  coffee,  and  soup,  in  dividing 
appropriately  her  pies  and  puddings,  and  even  in 
cutting  and  arranging  deftly  the  bread  upon  her 
board. 

A  word  to  the  guest,  and  then  we  will  proceed  to 
explicit  directions. 

Never  stare  at  the  carver.  Remember  you  are  in- 
vited to  dine,  not  to  take  a  lesson  in  carving.  Appear 
perfectly  unconscious  of  his  efforts ;  a  glance  now 
and   then  will   give   you   sufficient   insight   into   his 


14  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

method.  There  often  seems  to  be  an  irresistible  fasci- 
nation about  carving  which  silences  all  tongues  and 
draws  all  eyes  to  the  head  of  the  table.  The  most 
skilful  carver  will  sometimes  fail  if  conscious  of  being 
watched.  With  a  little  tact  the  hostess  can  easily 
engage  the  attention  of  her  guests,  that  the  carver 
may  not  be  annoyed. 

Should  your  preference  be  asked,  and  you  have 
any,  name  it  at  once,  provided  there  is  also  enough 
for  others  who  may  prefer  the  same  kind.  Remember 
there  are  only  two  fillets,  or  side-bones,  or  second 
joints ;  if  you  are  the  first  to  be  served,  do  not  test 
the  skill  of  the  carver  by  preferring  a  portion  difficult 
to  obtain. 

Many  of  these  cautions  may  seem  uncalled  for,  but 
they  have  been  suggested  by  personal  observation  of 
their  necessity.  People  of  good  breeding  would  never 
err  in  any  of  these  ways  ;  but  alas,  not  all  people  are 
well  bred,  and  innate  selfishness  often  crops  out  in 
small  matters. 

The  following  explicif  directions  have  not  been 
taken  from  books.  They  were  given  to  the  writer  a 
few  years  ago  by  one  who  was  an  adept  in  the  art, 
who  had  received  her  instruction  from  a  skilful  sur- 
geon, and  who  at  her  own  table  gave  a  practical 
demonstration  of  the  fact  that  a  lady  can  not  only 
"  carve  decently  and  in  good  order,"  but  with  ease 
and  elegance. 


SPECIAL   DIRECTIONS. 


TIP  OF  THE  SIRLOIN,   OR  RIB  ROAST. 

It  is  easier  to  carve  this  joint  by  cutting  across  the 
ribs,  parallel  with  the  backbone,  but  that  is  cutting 
with  the  grain ;  and  meat,  especially  beef,  seems  more 
tender  if  cut  across  the  grain. 

Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  backbone  at  the 
right.  If  the  backbones  be  not  removed  before  cook- 
ing, place  the  fork  in  the  middle  and  cut  close  to 
the  backbone  down  to  the  ribs.  -  Shave  off  the  thick, 
gristly  cord  near  the  backbone,  as  this,  if  left  on, 
interferes  with  cutting  thin  slices.  Then  cut,  from 
the  side  nearest  you,  thin  uniform  slices  parallel  with 
the  ribs.  Run  the  knife  under  and  separate  them 
from  the  bone.  Many  prefer  to  remove  the  bone  and 
skewer  the  meat  into  a  roll  before  cooking.  It  may 
then  be  laid,  flesh  down,  on  the  dish,  and  carved  across 
the  top  horizontally  in  thin  slices ;  or  if  you  find  it 
easier,  place  it  with  the  skin  surface  up,  and  carve 
down  from  the  flesh  side  nearest  you. 

This  style  of  serving  is  generally  preferred,  but 
there  are  advantages  in  retaining  the  bone ;  for  the 
thin  end  when  rolled  under  is  not  cooked  to  such  a 


16  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

nice  degree  of  crispness,  and  the  slices  are  usually 
larger  than  desired.  Again,  the  ribs,  by  keeping  the 
meat  in  position,  secure  for  it  a  clean  cut,  and  not 
one  broken  and  jagged,  and  the  thin  end  may  be 
served  or  not,  as  you  please. 

SIRLOIN  ROAST. 

The  backbone  or  thickest  end  should  be  at  the 
right  end  of  the  dish. 

Carve  a  sirloin  roast  by  cutting  several  thin  slices 
parallel  with  the  ribs.  Then  cut  down  across  the  ribs 
near  the  backbone,  and  also  at  the  flank  end,  and 
separate  the  slices. 

The  slices  should  be  as  thin  as  possible  and  yet 
remain  slices,  not  shavings.  Turn  the  meat  over  and 
cut  out  the  tenderloin  and  slice  it  in  the  same  manner 
across  the  grain ;  or  turn  the  meat  over  and  remove 
the  tenderloin  first.  Many  prefer  to  leave  the  tender- 
loin to  be  served  cold.  Cut  slices  of  the  crisp  fat  on 
the  flank  in  the  same  way,  and  serve  to  those  who 
wish  it.  This  is  a  part  which  many  dislike,  but  some 
persons  consider  it  very  choice.  Always  offer  it 
unless  you  know  the  tastes  of  those  whom  you  are 
serving. 

THE   BACK   OF  THE    RUMP. 

A  roast  from  the  back  of  the  rump,  if  cooked 
without  removing  the  bone,  should  be  placed  on  the 
platter  with  the  backbone  on  the  farther  side.     Cut 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  17 

first  underneath  to  loosen  the  meat  from  the  bone. 
Then,  if  the  family  be  large  and  all  the  meat  is  to  be 
used,  the  slices  may  be  cut  lengthwise;  but  should 
only  a  small  quantity  be  needed,  cut  crosswise  and 
only  from  the  small  end.  It  is  then  in  better  shape 
for  the  second  day. 

It  is  more  economical  to  serve  the  poorer  parts  the 
first  day,  as  they  are  never  better  than  when  hot  and 
freshly  cooked.  Reserve  the  more  tender  meat  to  be 
served  cold. 

FILLET  OF  BEEF  OR  TENDERLOIN. 

Before  cooking,  remove  all  the  fat,  and  every  fibre 
of  the  tough  white  membrane.  Press  it  into  shape 
again  and  lard  it,  or  cover  it  with  its  own  fat.  If 
this  fibre  be  not  removed,  the  sharpest  knife  will  fail 
to  cut  through  it.  Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the 
larger  end  at  the  right ;  or  if  two  short  fillets  be  used, 
place  the  thickest  ends  in  the  middle.  Carve  from 
the  thickest  part,  in  thin,  uniform  slices. 

ROUND  OF  BEEF,  FILLET  OF  VEAL,  OR  FRICANDEAU 
OF  VEAL. 

These  are  placed  on  the  platter,  flesh  side  up,  and 
carved  in  horizontal  slices,  care  being  taken  to  carve 
evenly,  so  that  the  portion  remaining  may  be  in  good 
shape.  As  the  whole  of  the  browned  outside  comes 
off  with  the  first  slices,  divide  this  into  small  pieces, 
to  be  served  if  desired  with  the  rare,  juicy,  inside 
slices. 

2 


18  CARVING  AXD  SERVING. 

BEEFSTEAK. 

It  may  seem  needless  to  direct  one  how  to  carve 
a  sirloin  steak,  but  it  sometimes  appears  to  require 
more  skill  than  to  carve  poultry,  as  those  who  have 
been  so  unfortunate  as  to  receive  only  the  flank  can 
testify. 

I  believe  most  strongly,  as  a  matter  of  economy, 
in  removing  the  bone,  and  any  tough  membrane  or 
gristle  that  will  not  be  eaten,  before  cooking  the 
steak.  If  there  be  a  large  portion  of  the  flank,  cook 
that  in  some  other  way.  With  a  small,  sharp  knife 
cut  close  to  the  rib  on  each  side,  round  the  backbone, 
and  remove  the  tough  white  membrane  on  the  edge 
of  the  tenderloin.  Leave  the  fat  on  the  upper  edge, 
and  the  kidney  fat  also,  or  a  part  of  it,  if  it  be  very 
thick.  There  need  be  no  waste  or  escape  of  juices  if 
the  cutting  be  done  quickly,  neatly,  and  just  before 
cooking.  Press  the  tenderloin  —  that  is,  the  small 
portion  on  the  under  side  of  the  bone  —  close  to  the 
upper  part,  that  the  shape  may  not  be  changed. 

In  serving  place  it  on  the  dish  with  the  tenderloin 
next  to  the  carver.  Cut  in  long  narrow  strips  from 
the  fat  edge  down  through  the  tenderloin.  Give  each 
person  a  bit  of  tenderloin,  upper  part,  and  fat.  If  the 
bone  be  not  removed  before  cooking,  remove  the  ten- 
derloin first  by  cutting  close  to  the  bone,  and  divide 
it  into  narrow  pieces ;  then  remove  the  meat  from  the 
upper  side  of  the  bone  and  cut  in  the  same  manner. 
A  long,  narrow  strip  about  as  wide  as  the  steak  is 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  19 

thick  is  much  more  easily  managed  on  one's  plate 
than  a  square  piece.  Serve  small  portions,  and  then, 
if  more  be  desired,  help  again. 

In  carving  large  rump  steaks  or  round  steaks,  cut 
always  across  the  grain,  in  narrow  strips.  Carving- 
knives  are  always  sharper  than  table-knives,  and 
should  do  the  work  of  cutting  the  fibres  of  the  meat ; 
then  the  short  fibres  may  easily  be  separated  by  one's 
own  knife.  There  is  a  choice  in  the  sevei*al  muscles 
of  a  large  rump  steak,  and  it  is  quite  an  art  to  serve 
it  equally. 

LEG  OF  MUTTON  OR  LAMB,  OR  KNUCKLE  OF 
VEAL. 

Before  cooking,  remove  the  rump-bones  at  the  larger 
end.  For  a  small  family  it  is  more  economical  to 
remove  all  the  bones  and  fill  the  cavity  with  stuffing. 
Tie  or  skewer  it  into  compact  shape ;  there  is  then 
less  waste,  as  the  meat  that  is  not  used  at  the  first 
dinner  does  not  become  dry  and  hard  by  keeping. 

In  serving,  the  thickest  part  of  the  leg  should  be 
toward  the  back  of  the  platter.  Put  the  fork  in  at 
the  top,  turn  the  leg  toward  you  to  bring  the  thickest 
part  up,  and  cut  through  to  the  bone.  Cut  several 
slices  of  medium  thickness,  toward  the  thickest  part, 
then  slip  the  knife  under  and  cut  them  away  from 
the  bone.  A  choice  bit  of  crisp  fat  may  be  found  on 
the  larger  end,  and  there  is  a  sweet  morsel  near  the 
knuckle  or  lower  joint.  If  more  be  required,  slice  from 
the  under  side  of  the  bone  in  the  same  manner. 


20  CARVmG  AND  SERVING. 

LEG  OF  VENISON. 

This  is  carved  in  the  same  way  as  a  leg  of  mutton, — 
through  the  thickest  part  down  to  the  bone. 

SADDLE  OF  MUTTON. 

Remove  the  ends  of  the  ribs  and  roll  the  fiank 
under  before  cooking. 

Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  tail  end  at  the  left. 
Put  the  fork  in  firmly  near  the  centre,  and  carve 
down  to  the  ribs  in  long  slices,  parallel  with  the  back- 
bone, and  the  whole  length.  Slip  the  knife  under  and 
separate  the  slices  from  the  ribs ;  do  the  same  on  the 
other  side  of  the  back.  Divide  the  slices  if  very  long. 
Cut  the  crisp  fat  from  the  sides  in  slanting  slices. 
Turn  partly  over  and  remove  the  choice  bit  of  tender- 
loin and  kidney  fat  under  the  ribs. 

Carving  a  saddle  of  mutton  in  this  way  is  really  cut- 
ting with  the  grain  of  the  meat,  but  it  is  the  method 
adopted  by  the  best  authorities.  It  is  only  the  choicest 
quality  of  mutton,  and  that  which  has  been  kept  long 
enough  to  be  very  tender,  that  is  prepared  for  cooking 
in  this  way.  The  fibres  are  not  so  tough  as  those  of 
beef ;  there  is  no  perceptible  difference  in  the  tender- 
ness of  the  meat  when  cut  in  this  manner,  and  there 
is  an  advantage  in  obtaining  slices  which  are  longer, 
and  yet  as  thin  as  those  from  cutting  across  the 
grain. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  21 

SADDLE  OF  VENISON. 

Carve  the  same  as  a  saddle  of  mutton.  Serve  some 
of  the  dish  gravy  with  each  portion.  Venison  and 
mutton  soon  become  chilled,  the  fat  particularly,  thus 
losing  much  of  their  delicacy.  Send  them  to  the 
table  very  hot,  on  hot  platters;  carve  quickly,  and 
serve  at  once  on  warm  plates. 

HAUNCH  OF  VENISON  OR  MUTTON. 

This  is  the  leg  and  loin  undivided,  or,  as  more 
commonly  called,  the  hind  quarter. 

The  butcher  should  split  the  whirl-bone,  disjoint 
the  backbone,  and  split  the  ribs  in  the  flank.  The 
rump-bone  and  aitch-bone  may  be  removed  before 
cooking.  Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  loin  or 
backbone  nearest  the  carver.  Separate  the  leg  from 
the  loin ;  this  is  a  difficult  joint  to  divide  when  the 
bones  have  not  been  removed,  but  it  can  be  done  with 
practice.  When  the  leg  has  been  taken  off,  carve 
that  as  directed  on  page  19.  Carve  the  loin  by  first 
cutting  off  the  flank  and  dividing  it,  then  divide  be- 
tween each  rib  in  the  loin,  or  cut  long  slices  parallel 
with  the  backbone,  in  the  same  way  as  directed  for 
a  saddle  of  mutton.  Some  English  authorities  recom- 
mend cutting  perpendicularly  through  the  thickest 
part  of  the  leg  near  the  knuckle,  and  then  cutting 
across  at  right  angles  with  this  first  cut,  in  long  thin 
slices,  the  entire  length  of  the  joint;  the  slices  are 


22  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

then  separated  from  the  bone  and  divided  as  desired. 
When  carved  in  this  way  the  loin  and  leg  are  not 
divided.  This  is  not  so  economical  as  the  first 
method. 


LOIN  OF  MUTTON,  LAMB,  VEAL,   PORK,  OR 
VENISON. 

These  should  always  be  divided  at  the  joints  in  the 
backbone  by  the  butcher ;  then  it  is  an  easy  matter 
to  separate  the  ribs,  serving  one  to  each  person,  with 
a  portion  of  the  kidney  and  fat  if  desired.  But  if  the 
butcher  neglect  to  do  this,  and  you  have  no  cleaver 
with  which  to  do  it,  it  is  better  to  cut  slices  down 
to  the  ribs  parallel  with  the  backbone,  as  directed  in 
the  saddle  of  mutton,  than  to  suffer  the  annoyance  of 
hacking  at  the  joints. 

Before  cooking  a  loin  of  pork,  gash  through  the  fat 
between  the  ribs ;  this  will  give  more  of  the  crisp  fat, 
and  will  aid  in  separating  the  ribs. 

SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON  OR  VEAL. 

Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  thickest  part  up. 
From  the  thickest  part  cut  thin  slices,  slanting  down 
to  the  knuckle  ;  then  make  several  cuts  across  to 
tlie  larger  end,  and  remove  these  slices  from  the 
shoulder-blade.  Separate  the  blade  at  the  shoulder- 
joint,  and  remove  it.  Cut  the  meat  under  the  blade 
in  perpendicular  slices. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  23 

Any  part  of  the  forequarter  of  mutton  is  more 
tender  and  palatable,  and  more  easily  carved,  if  before 
cooking  it  be  boned  and  stuffed.  Or  it  may  be  boned, 
rolled,  and  corned. 

FOREQUARTER  OF  LAMB  OR  VEAL. 

This  is  a  difficult  joint  for  a  beginner,  but  after  a 
little  study  and  practice  one  may  manipulate  it  with 
dexterity.  Some  time  when  a  lamb  stew  or  fricassee 
is  to  be  prepared,  study  the  joint  carefully  and  prac- 
tise cutting  it  up,  and  thus  become  familiar  with  the 
position  of  the  shoulder-blade  joint,  —  the  only  one 
difficult  to  reach.  The  backbone  should  always  be  dis- 
jointed. The  ribs  should  be  divided  across  the  breast 
and  at  the  junction  of  the  breast-bone,  and  the  butcher 
should  also  remove  the  shoulder-blade  and  the  bone 
in  the  leg.  Unless  the  joint  be  very  young  and  ten- 
der, it  is  better  to  use  the  breast  portion  for  a  stew  or 
fricassee  ;  but  when  nice  and  tender  the  breast  may 
be  roasted  with  the  other  portions,  as  the  choice 
gelatinous  morsels  near  the  breast-bones  are  preferred 
by  many.  This  joint  consists  of  three  portions,  — 
the  shoulder  or  knuckle,  the  breast  or  brisket,  and  the 
ribs.  Put  it  on  the  platter  with  the  backbone  up. 
Put  tlie  fork  in  near  the  knuckle.  Cut  through  the 
fiesli  clear  round  the  leg  and  well  up  on  the  shoulder, 
but  not  too  far  on  the  breast.  With  the  fork  lift  the 
leg  away  from  the  shoulder,  cutting  in  till  you  come 
to  the  joint,  after  separating  which,  remove  the  leg  to 


24  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

a  separate  dish,  to  be  afterward  cut  into  thin  slices 
through  the  thickest  part.  Cut  across  from  left  to 
right  where  the  ribs  have  been  broken,  separating  the 
gristly  breast  from  the  upper  portion.  Then  remove 
the  blade  if  it  has  not  been  done  before  cooking. 
Divide  each  of  these  portions  between  the  ribs,  and 
serve  a  piece  of  the  rib,  the  breast,  or  a  slice  from  the 
leg,  as  preferred. 

NECK  OF  VEAL. 

The  vertebrae  should  be  disjointed,  and  the  ribs  cut 
on  the  inside  through  the  bone  only,  on  the  thin  end. 
Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  back  up  and  cut  across 
from  left  to  right,  where  the  ribs  were  divided,  sepa- 
rating the  small  ends  of  the  ribs  from  the  thicker 
upper  portion;  then  cut  between  each  short  rib. 
Carve  from  the  back  down  in  slanting  slices,  then  slip 
the  knife  under  close  to  the  ribs  and  remove  the  slices. 
This  gives  a  larger  portion  than  the  cutting  of  the 
slices  straight  would  give,  and  yet  not  so  large  as  if 
each  were  helped  to  a  whole  rib.  Serve  a  short  rib 
with  each  slice. 

BREAST  OF  VEAL. 

Place  it  on  the  dish  with  the  breast-bone  or  brisket 
nearest  you.  Cut  off  the  gristly  brisket,  then  separate 
it  into  sections.  Cut  the  upper  part  parallel  with  the 
ribs,  or  between  each  rib  if  very  small.  Slice  the 
sweetbread,  and  serve  a  portion  of  brisket,  rib,  and 
sweetbread  to  each  person. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  25 

CALF'S  HEAD. 

Calf  s  head  served  whole  is  a  favorite  dish  in  Eng- 
land, but  seldom  seen  on  American  tables.  For  those 
who  have  this  preference  a  few  hints  about  carving 
may  be  desirable.  Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the 
face  toward  the  right.  Cut  from  left  to  right,  through 
the  middle  of  the  cheek  down  to  the  bone,  in  several 
parallel  slices  of  medium  thickness ;  then  separate 
them  from  the  bone.  Cut  down  at  the  back  of  the 
throat  and  slice  the  throat  sweetbread.  With  the 
point  of  the  knife  cut  out  the  gelatinous  portion  near 
the  eye,  and  serve  to  those  who  desire  it.  There  is  a 
small  portion  of  delicate  lean  meat  to  be  found  after 
removing  the  jawbone.  Some  are  fond  of  the  palate, 
which  lies  under  the  head.  The  tongue  should  be 
sliced,  and  a  portion  of  this  and  of  the  brains  offered 
to  each  person. 

ROAST  PIG. 

This  is  sometimes  partly  divided  before  serving. 
Cut  off  the  head  and  divide  it  through  the  middle; 
then  divide  through  the  backbone.  Place  it  on  the 
platter  back  to  back,  with  half  the  head  on  each  end 
of  the  dish. 

If  the  pig  be  very  young,  it  is  in  better  style  to  serve 
it  whole.  Before  cooking,  truss  the  forelegs  forward 
and  the  hind  legs  backward.  Place  the  pig  on  the 
platter  with  the  head  at  the  left.  Cut  off  the  head, 
separating  the  neck-joint  with  the  point  of  the  knife, 


26  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

then  cut  through  the  flesh  on  either  side.  Take  off 
the  shoulders  by  cutting  in  a  circle  from  under  the 
foreleg  round  nearly  to  the  backbone  and  down  again. 
Bend  it  forward  and  cut  through  the  joint.  Cut  off 
the  hams  in  the  same  way.  Then  split  the  backbone 
the  entire  length  and  divide  between  each  rib.  Cut 
slices  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  hams  and  the 
shoulders.  The  ribs  are  the  choice  portion,  but  those 
who  like  it  at  all  consider  any  part  of  it  a  delicacy. 

HAM. 

If  the  ham  is  not  to  be  served  whole,  the  simplest 
and  most  economical  way  is  to  begin  near  the  smaller 
end  and  cut  in  very  thin  slices,  on  each  side  of  the 
bone.  Divide  the  slices  and  arrange  them  neatly  on 
the  dish,  one  lapping  over  another,  with  the  fat  edge 
outside. 

Where  the  whole  ham  is  to  appear  on  the  table  it 
should  be  trimmed  neatly,  and  the  end  of  the  bone 
covered  with  a  paper  ruffle.  The  thickest  part  should 
be  on  the  further  side  of  the  platter.  Make  an  inci- 
sion through  the  tliickest  part,  a  little  way  from  the 
smaller  end.  Shave  off  in  very  thin  slices,  cutting 
toward  the  larger  end  and  down  to  the  bone  at  every 
slice.  The  knife  should  be  very  sharp  to  make  a 
clean  cut,  and  each  slice  should  have  a  portion  of  the 
fat  with  the  crisp  crust.  To  serve  it  hot  a  second 
day,  fill  the  cavity  with  a  bread  stuffing,  cover  it  with 
buttered  crumbs,  and  brown  it  in  the  oven.     If  it  is 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  27 

to  be  served  cold,  brown  the  crumbs  first  and  then 
sprinkle  them  over  the  stuffing.  If  this  be  done  the 
edges  will  not  dry  and  the  symmetry  of  the  ham  is 
preserved.  Carve  as  before,  toward  the  larger  end, 
and  if  more  be  needed,  cut  also  from  the  other  side  of 
the  bone. 

By  filling  the  cavity  again  with  stuffing,  a  ham  may 
be  served  as  a  whole  one  the  third  time  and  look  as 
inviting  as  when  first  served.  Should  there  be  two 
or  three  inches  of  the  thickest  end  left  for  another 
serving,  saw  off  the  bone,  lay  the  meat  flesh  side  up, 
with  the  fat  on  the  further  side  of  the  platter,  and 
carve  horizontally  in  thin  slices. 

TONGUE. 

The  centre  of  the  tongue  is  the  choicest  portion. 
Cut  across  in  slices  as  thin  as  a  wafer.  The  tip  of 
the  tongue  is  more  delicate  when  cut  lengthwise  in 
thin  slices,  though  this  is  not  the  usual  practice. 

CORNED  BEEF. 

Corned  beef  should  be  put  while  hot  into  a  pan  or 
mould,  in  layers  of  fat  and  lean,  with  the  fibres  run- 
ning the  long  way  of  the  pan.  After  pressing  it, 
place  it  on  the  platter  and  slice  thinly  from  one  end. 
This  gives  uniform  slices,  cut  across  the  grain,  each 
one  having  a  fair  proportion  of  fat  and  lean. 


28  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 

CHARTREUSE,  OR  PRESSED  MEAT. 

Any  moulds  of  meat,  either  plain  or  in  jelly  or  rice, 
should  be  cut  from  one  end,  or  in  the  middle  and 
toward  either  end,  in  uniform  slices,  the  thickness 
varying  with  the  kind  of  meat.  Be  careful  not  to 
break  them  in  serving.  If  only  a  part  of  a  slice  be 
desired,  divide  it  neatly.  Help  also  to  the  rice  or 
jelly. 

TO  CUT  UP  A  CHICKEN  FOR  A  STEW  OR 
FRICASSEE. 

Nothing  is  more  unsightly  and  unappetizing  than  a 
portion  of  chicken  with  the  bones  chopped  at  all  sorts 
of  angles,  and  with  splinters  of  bone  in  the  meat. 
All  bones  will  separate  easily  at  the  joint  when  the 
cord  or  tendon  and  gristly  portion  connecting  them 
have  been  cut. 

After  the  chicken  has  been  singed  and  wiped,  and 
the  crop  removed  from  the  end  of  the  neck,  place  it 
in  front  of  you  with  the  breast  up  and  the  neck  at  the 
left.  With  a  small  sharp  knife  make  an  incision  in 
the  thin  skin  between  the  inside  of  the  legs  and  the 
body.  Cut  through  the  skin  only,  down  toward  the 
right  side  of  tlie  leg,  and  then  on  the  left.  Bend 
the  leg  over  toward  you,  and  you  will  see  where  the 
flesh  joins  the  body  and  also  where  the  joint  is,  for 
the  bone  will  move  in  the  joint.  Cut  through  the 
flesh  close  to  the  body,  first  on  the  right  of  the  joint 
and  then  on  the  left,  and  as  you  bend  the  leg  over, 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  29 

cut  the  cord  and  gristle  in  the  joint,  and  this  will 
free  the  leg  from  the  body.  Find  the  joint  in  the  leg 
and  divide  it  neatly.  Work  the  wing  until  you  see 
where  the  joint  is,  then  cut  through  the  flesh  on  the 
shoulder,  bend  the  wing  up  and  cut  down  through 
the  gristle  and  cord.  Make  a  straight  clean  cut, 
leaving  no  jagged  edges.  Divide  the  wing  in  the 
joint,  and  then  remove  the  leg  and  wing  from  the 
opposite  side,  and  divide  in  the  same  way.  Make  an 
incision  in  the  skin  near  the  vent,  cut  through  the 
membrane  lying  between  the  breast  and  the  tail  down 
to  the  backbone  on  each  side,  remove  the  entrails, 
and  break  off  the  backbone  just  below  the  ribs. 
Separate  the  side-bones  from  the  back  by  cutting 
close  to  the  backbone  from  one  end  to  the  other  on 
each  side.  This  is  a  little  difficult  to  do  ;  and  in  your 
first  experiment  it  would  be  better  not  to  divide  it 
until  after  boiling  it,  as  it  separates  more  easily  after 
the  connecting  gristle  has  been  softened  by  cooking. 
Take  off  the  neck  close  to  the  back  by  cutting  througli 
the  flesh  and  twisting  or  wringing  it  until  the  bone 
is  disjointed. 

Cut  off  the  wish-bone  in  a  slanting  direction  from 
the  front  of  the  breast-bone  down  to  the  shoulder  on 
each  side.  Cut  through  the  cartilage  between  the  end 
of  the  collar-bone  and  the  breast.  Cut  between  the 
end  of  the  shoulder-blade  and  the  back  down  toward 
the  wing-joint,  turn  the  blade  over  toward  the  neck, 
and  cut  through  the  joint. 

This  joint  in  the  wing,  collar-bone,  and  shoulder- 


30  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 

blade  is  the  hardest  to  separate.  Remove  the  breast 
from  tlie  back  by  cutting  through  the  cartilage  con- 
necting the  ribs ;  this  can  be  seen  from  the  inside. 
The  breast  should  be  left  whole  and  the  bone  removed 
after  stewing;  but  if  the  chicken  is  to  be  fried  j^ou 
may  remove  the  bone  first. 

It  is  not  necessary  in  boiling  a  chicken  to  divide 
it  so  minutely,  for  the  wings  and  legs  can  be  dis- 
jointed, and  the  side-bones  and  breast  separated  from 
the  back  more  easily  after  cooking;  but  it  is  valuable 
practice,  and  if  one  learns  to  do  it  neatly  it  will  help 
in  carving  a  boiled  fowl  or  roast  turkey. 

In  arranging  a  fricasseed  chicken  on  the  platter, 
put  the  neck  and  ribs  at  the  left  end  of  the  dish 
and  tha  backbone  at  the  right  end.  Put  the  breast 
over  the  ribs,  arrange  the  wings  on  each  side  of  the 
breast,  the  second  joints  next  to  the  side-bones,  and 
cross  the  ends  of  the  drumsticks  over  the  tail. 

BOILED  FOWL  OR  TURKEY. 

Fowls  or  turkeys  for  boiling  should  be  trussed  with 
the  ends  of  the  legs  drawn  into  the  body  through  a 
slit  in  the  skin,  and  kept  in  place  with  a  small  skewer. 
Turn  the  tip  of  the  wing  over  on  the  back.  Cut  off 
the  neck,  not  the  skin,  close  to  the  body,  and  after 
putting  in  the  stuffing,  fasten  the  skin  of  the  neck  to 
the  back.  Put  strips  of  cloth  round  it,  or  pin  it  in  a 
cloth,  to  keep  it  white  and  preserve  the  shape. 

In  carving,  place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  head 
at  the  left.     Put  the  fork  in  firmly  across  the  breast- 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  31 

bone.  With  the  point  of  the  knife  cut  through  the 
skin  near  the  tail,  and  lift  the  legs  out  from  the  in- 
side. Then  cut  tli  rough  the  skin  between  the  legs 
and  body,  bend  the  leg  over,  and  cut  across  through 
the  joint.  Cut  from  the  top  of  the  shoulder  down 
toward  the  body  until  the  wing-joint  is  exposed, 
then  cut  through  this,  separating  the  wing  from  the 
body.  Remove  the  leg  and  wing  from  the  other  side. 
Shave  off  a  thin  slice  on  the  end  of  the  breast  toward 
each  wing-joint,  slip  the  knife  under  at  the  top  of  the 
breast-bone,  and  turn  back  the  wish-bone. 

Capons  and  large  fowls  may  be  sliced  thinly  across 
the  breast  in  the  same  manner  as  a  roast  turkey. 
But  if  the  fowl  be  small,  draw  the  knife  along  the 
edge  of  the  breast-bone  on  each  side,  and  lay  the 
meat  away  from  the  bone ;  the  fillets  will  separate 
easily.  Then  divide  the  meat  across  the  grain.  Sepa- 
rate the  collar-bone  from  the  breast.  Slip  the  knife 
under  the  shoulder-blade,  turn  it  over,  and  separate 
at  the  joint.  Cut  through  the  cartilage  connecting 
the  ribs ;  this  will  separate  the  breast  from  the  back. 
Now  remove  the  fork  from  the  breast,  turn  the  back 
over,  place  the  knife  midway,  and  with  the  fork  lift 
up  the  tail  end,  separating  the  back  from  the  body. 
Place  the  fork  in  the  middle  of  the  backbone,  cut 
close  to  the  backbone  from  one  end  to  the  other  on 
each  side,  freeing  the  side-bones. 

The  wing  and  breast  of  a  boiled  fowl  are  the  favorite 
portions.  It  is  important  that  the  fowl  be  cooked 
just  right.     If  underdone,  the  joints  will  not  separate 


32  CARVING  AND   SERVING- 

readily ;  and  if  overdone  they  will  fall  apart  so  quickly 
that  carving  is  impossible.  Unless  the  knife  be  very 
sharp,  and  the  work  done  carefully,  the  skin  of  the 
breast  will  come  off  with  the  leg  or  wing. 

BROILED  CHICKEN. 

Split  the  chicken  down  the  back  and  remove  the 
backbone.  If  the  chicken  be  very  young  and  tender — 
and  only  such  are  suitable  for  broiling  —  remove  the 
breast-bone  before  cooking,  or  cut  the  bone  through 
the  middle,  lengthwise  and  crosswise  from  the  inside, 
without  cutting  into  the  meat.  In  serving,  divide 
through  the  breast  from  the  neck  down,  and  serve  half 
to  each  person  ;  or  if  a  smaller  portion  be  desired, 
divide  each  half  crosswise  through  the  breast,  leaving 
the  wing  on  one  part  and  the  leg  on  tlie  other. 

If  the  chicken  be  large,  break  the  joints  of  the  legs, 
thighs,  and  wings,  without  breaking  through  the  skin  ; 
cut  the  tendons  on  the  thighs  from  tlie  inside,  cut  the 
membrane  on  the  inside  of  the  collar-bone  and  wing- 
joint,  and  remove  the  breast-bone.  This  may  all  be 
done  before  cooking,  and  will  not  injure  the  appear- 
ance of  the  outside. 

In  serving,  separate  the  legs  and  wings  at  the  joints, 
then  separate  the  breast  from  the  lower  part,  and 
divide  the  breast  lengthwise  and  crosswise. 

Carving-scissors  are  convenient  for  cutting  any  kind 
of  broiled  game  or  poultry. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  33 

ROAST  TURKEY. 

Turkeys  should  be  carefully  trussed.  The  wings 
and  thiglis  should  be  brought  close  to  the  body  and 
kept  in  position  by  skewers.  The  ends  of  the  drum- 
sticks may  be  drawn  into  the  body  or  crossed  over 
the  tail  and  tied  firmly. 

After  cooking,  free  the  ends  of  the  drumsticks  from 
the  body  and  trim  them  with  a  paper  ruffle.  This 
will  enable  the  carver  to  touch  them  if  necessary 
without  soiling  his  hands.  Place  the  turkey  on  the 
platter  with  the  head  at  the  left.  Unless  the  platter 
be  very  large,  provide  an  extra  dish,  also  a  fork  for 
serving. 

Insert  the  carving-fork  across  the  middle  of  the 
breast-bone.  Cut  through  the  skin  between  the  breast 
and  the  thigh.  Bend  the  leg  over,  and  cut  off  close 
to  the  body  and  through  the  joint.  Cut  through  the 
top  of  the  shoulder  down  through  the  wing-joint. 
Shave  off  the  breast  in  thin  slices,  slanting  from  the 
front  of  the  breast-bone  down  toward  the  wing-joint. 

If  the  family  be  small  and  the  turkey  is  to  be  served 
for  a  second  dinner,  carve  only  from  the  side  nearest 
you.  Tip  the  bird  over  slightly,  and  with  the  point  of 
the  knife  remove  the  oyster  and  the  small  dark  portion 
found  on  the  side-bone.  Then  remove  the  fork  from 
the  breast  and  divide  the  leg  and  wing.  Cut  through 
the  skin  between  the  body  and  breast,  and  with  a 
spoon  remove  a  portion  of  the  stuffing.  Serve  light 
or  dark  meat  and  stuffing,  as  preferred.     If  carved  in 

3 


34  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 

this  way,  the  turkey  will  be  left  with  one  half  entire, 
and  if  placed  on  a  clean  platter  witli  the  cut  side 
nearest  the  carver,  and  garnished  with  parsley,  will 
present  nearly  as  fine  an  appearance,  to  all  but  the 
carver,  as  when  first  served. 

When  there  are  many  to  be  served,  take  off  the  leg 
and  wing  from  each  side  and  slice  the  whole  of  the 
breast  before  removing  the  fork ;  then  divide  as 
required. 

It  is  not  often  necessary  to  cut  up  the  whole  body 
of  the  turkey ;  but  where  every  scrap  of  the  meat  will 
be  needed,  or  you  wish  to  exercise  your  skill,  proceed 
to  carve  in  this  manner. 

Put  the  fork  in  firmly  across  the  middle  of  the 
breast-bone.  Cut  through  the  skin  between  the  leg 
and  body.  Bend  the  leg  over  and  cut  off  at  the  joint. 
If  the  turkey  be  very  tender  or  overcooked,  the  side- 
bone  will  separate  from  the  back  and  come  away  with 
the  second  joint,  making  it  more  difficult  to  separate 
the  thigh  from  the  side-bone.  Cut  through  the  top 
of  the  shoulder  and  separate  tlie  wing  at  the  joint. 
Cut  off  the  leg  and  wing  from  the  other  side.  Carve 
the  breast  on  each  side,  in  tliin  slices,  slanting  slightly 
toward  the  wing.  Be  careful  to  take  a  portion  of  crisp 
outside  with  each  slice.  Shave  off  the  crisp  skin  near 
the  neck,  in  order  to  reach  tlie  stuffing.  Insert  the 
point  of  the  knife  at  the  front  of  the  breast-bone,  turn 
back  the  wish-bone  and  separate  it.  Cut  through  the 
cartilage  on  each  side,  separating  the  collar-bones  from 
the  breast.     Tip  the  body  slightly  over  and  slip  the 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  35 

knife  under  the  end  of  the  shoulder-blade ;  turn  it  over 
toward  the  wing.  Repeat  this  process  on  the  opposite 
side.  Cut  through  the  cartilage  which  divides  the 
ribs,  separating  the  breast-bone  from  the  back.  Lay 
the  breast  one  side  and  remove  the  fork  from  it.  Take 
the  stuffing  from  the  back.  Turn  the  back  over,  place 
the  knife  midway  just  below  the  ribs,  and  with  the 
fork  lift  up  the  tail  end,  separating  the  back  from  the 
body.  Place  the  fork  in  the  middle  of  the  backbone, 
and  cut  close  to  the  backbone  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  on  each  side,  freeing  the  side-bone.  Then 
divide  the  legs  and  wings  at  the  joints.  The  joint 
in  the  leg  is  not  quite  in  the  middle  of  the  bend,  but 
a  trifle  nearer  the  thigh.  It  requires  some  practice 
to  strike  these  joints  in  the  right  spot.  Cut  off  the 
meat  from  each  side  of  the  bone  in  the  second  joint 
and  leg,  as  these  when  large  are  more  than  one  per- 
son requires,  and  it  is  inconvenient  to  have  so  large 
bones  on  one's  plate. 

It  is  easier  to  finish  the  carving  before  beginning 
to  serve.  An  expert  carver  will  have  the  whole  bird 
disjointed  and  literally  in  pieces  with  a  very  few 
strokes  of  the  knife. 

ROAST  GOOSE. 

A  green  goose  neatly  trussed  and  "  done  to  a  turn  " 
looks  very  tempting  on  the  platter ;  but  there  is  so 
little  meat  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  bird  that 
unless  it  be  skilfully  carved  only  a  small  number  can 
be  served.     The   breast   of  a   goose   is   broader  and 


36  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

flatter  than  that  of  a  turkey.  It  should  be  carved  in 
a  different  manner,  although  many  writers  give  the 
same  directions  for  carving  both. 

Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  head  at  the  left. 
Insert  the  fork  firmly  across  the  ridge  of  the  breast- 
bone. Begin  at  the  wing  and  cut  down  through  the 
meat  to  the  bone,  the  whole  length  of  the  breast. 
Cut  down  in  the  same  way  in  parallel  slices,  as  thin 
as  can  be  cut,  until  you  come  to  the  ridge  of  the  breast- 
bone. Slip  the  knife  under  the  meat  at  the  end  of 
the  breast,  and  remove  the  slices  from  the  bone.  Cut 
in  the  same  manner  on  the  other  side  of  the  breast. 
Cut  through  the  skin  below  the  breast,  insert  a  spoon 
and  help  to  the  stuffing.  If  more  be  required,  cut  the 
wing  off  at  the  joint.  Then  tip  the  body  over  slightly 
and  cut  off  the  leg.  This  thigh-joint  is  tougher,  and 
requires  more  skill  in  separating,  than  the  second 
joint  of  a  turkey.  It  lies  nearer  the  backbone.  But 
practice  and  familiarity  with  its  location  will  enable 
one  to  strike  it  accurately.  The  wish-bone,  shoulder 
blade,  and  collar-bone  may  be  removed  according  to 
the  directions  given  for  carving  roast  turkey.  Some 
prefer  to  remove  the  wing  and  leg  before  slicing  the 
breast. 

ROAST  DUCK. 

Place  it  in  the  same  position  and  carve  in  the  same 
way  as  a  goose. 

Begin  at  the  wing,  and  cut  down  to  the  bone  in 
long  thin  slices,  parallel  with  the  breast-bone;  then 


UN1VF.RSIT--     )!•   CALIF(M^NrA 

remove  them  from  the  bone.  The  breast  is  the  fa- 
vorite portion  ;  but  the  "  wing  of  a  flyer  and  the  leg  of 
a  swimmer  "  are  esteemed  by  epicures. 

The  stuffing  is  not  often  desired,  but  if  so,  it  may 
be  found  by  cutting  across  below  the  end  of  the 
breast. 

Geese  and  ducks  are  seldom  entirely  cut  up  at  the 
table,  as  there  is  very  little  meat  on  the  back.  But 
often  from  a  seemingly  bare  carcass  enough  may  be 
obtained  to  make  a  savory  entree. 

PIGEONS. 

These,  if  small,  are  served  whole.  If  large,  cut 
through  the  middle  from  the  neck  to  the  end  of  the 
breast  and  down  through  the  backbone.  The  bones 
are  thin,  and  may  easily  be  divided  with  a  sharp  knife. 
When  smaller  portions  are  required,  cut  from  the 
shoulder  down  below  the  leg,  separating  the  wing  and 
leg  from  the  body. 

PARTRIDGES. 

Cut  through  above  the  joint  of  the  wing,  down 
below  the  leg,  and  remove  the  wing  and  leg  in  one 
portion.  Cut  under  the  breast  from  tlie  lower  end 
through  the  ribs  to  the  neck  and  remove  the  breast 
entire.  Then  divide  it  throup:h  the  middle,  and,  if 
very  plump,  divide  again.  When  very  small  they 
may  be  divided  tlirough  the  breast  and  back  into  two 
equal  parts. 


38  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 


LARDED  GROUSE. 

Turn  the  legs  over  and  free  them  from  the  body. 
Cut  slices  down  to  the  bone  the  entire  length  of  the 
breast ;  then  slip  the  knife  under  and  remove  the 
slices.  Cut  off  the  wing  and  leg,  and  separate  the  back- 
bone from  the  body.  There  are  some  morsels  on  the 
back  which  are  considered  choice  by  those  who  like 
the  peculiar  flavor  of  this  game.  As  this  is  a  dry 
meat,  help  generously  to  the  bread  sauce  which  should 
always  accompany  it. 

Where  this  is  the  principal  dish,  or  where  a  larger 
portion  is  required,  divide  it  through  the  breast,  as 
directed  for  small  pigeons. 

Woodcock^  Snips ^  and  other  Small  Birds  are  usually 
served  whole.  But  if  only  a  portion  be  desired,  divide 
them  through  the  breast. 

RABBIT. 

A  rabbit  should  be  trussed,  with  the  forelegs  turned 
toward  the  back,  and  the  hind  legs  forward.  Place  it 
on  the  platter  with  the  back  up  and  head  at  the  left. 
Remove  the  shoulders  by  cutting  round  between  them 
and  the  body,  carrying  the  knife  up  nearly  to  the  back- 
bone. Turn  them  back  and  cut  through  the  joint. 
Remove  the  hind  legs  in  the  same  manner.  Then 
place  the  fork  in  the  middle  of  the  back  and  cut  sev- 
eral slices  from  each  side  of  the  loin  parallel  with  the 
backbone.     The  loin  is  the  choicest  part. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  39 

SWEETBREADS,   CHOPS,   AND  CUTLETS. 

These  are  not  divided,  one  being  served  to  each 
person. 

FISH. 

A  broad  silver  knife  should  be  used  in  serving  fish. 
Serve  as  little  of  the  bone  as  possible,  and  be  careful 
not  to  break  the  flakes. 

Halibut  or  Salmon.  A  middle  cut,  or  thick  piece, 
of  halibut  or  salmon  should  be  placed  on  the  platter 
with  the  skin  surface  up  and  the  back  toward  the 
farther  side  of  the  dish.  Carve  in  thick  slices  down 
to  the  bone,  slip  the  knife  under  and  remove  them. 
Then  remove  the  bone,  and  serve  the  lower  portion  in 
the  same  manner. 

A  thin  slice  of  halibut  should  be  laid  on  the  platter 
with  the  flesh  side  up.  Cut  next  to  the  bone  on  each 
side,  divide  the  fish  as  required,  and  leave  the  bone 
on  the  platter. 

Mackerel,  White-fish,  etc.  These  and  other  thin 
fish  for  broiling  should  be  split  down  the  back  before 
cooking.  In  serving,  divide  through  the  middle 
lengthwise,  and  then  divide  each  half  into  such  por- 
tions as  may  be  desired.  Be  careful  not  to  break  or 
crumble  them. 

Smelts,  Perch,  and  other  small  pan-fish  are  served 
whole.  They  should  be  arranged  on  the  dish  with 
heads  and  tails  alternating,  or  in  a  circle  round  a 
silver  cup   placed   in   the   centre   of  the  platter  and 


40  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

holding  the  sauce.     Or,  place  two  or  three  on  a  silver 
skewer,  and  serve  a  skewerful  to  each  person. 

Small  slices  and  rolled  fillets  of  fish  are  not 
divided. 

BAKED  FISH. 

Cod,  Haddock,  Cash,  Blue-fish,  Shad,  Small  Salmon, 
and  Bass.  These  when  served  whole  may  be  carved 
in  a  more  satisfactory  manner  if  before  cooking  they 
are  prepared  according  to  tlie  following  directions  : 

Stuff  them  and  place  them  upright  in  the  pan  in- 
stead of  on  one  side.  Fish  that  are  broad  and  short 
like  shad  may  be  kept  in  place  by  propping  with  stale 
bread  or  pared  potatoes  ;  but  others  that  are  narrow 
in  proportion  to  the  length  may  be  skewered  or  tied 
into  the   shape  of  the  letter  S. 

Thread  a  trussing  needle  with  strong  twine,  run  it 
through  the  head  and  fasten  it  there  ;  then  bend  the 
head  round  and  draw  the  needle  through  the  middle 
of  the  body.  Bend  the  tail  in  the  opposite  direction, 
run  the  needle  through  near  the  tail,  draw  the  string 
tightly  and  fasten  it.  Gash  the  skin  two  inches  apart 
on  each  side.  Fish  thus  prepared  will  retain  its  shape 
until  served. 

Place  it  on  the  platter  with  the  head  at  the  left  and 
the  outward  curve  on  the  farther  side  of  the  dish. 
Make  an  incision  along  each  side  of  the  backbone  the 
entire  length  of  the  fish.  Then  cut  through  the 
gashes  on  the  side  nearest  you  and  lay  each  portion 
away  from  the  bone.     Then  remove  the   fish  on  the 


CARVING  AND   SERVING.  41 

farther  side  of  the  bone.  Raise  the  bone  to  reach  the 
stuffing,  and  serve  a  little  of  the  fish,  stuffing,  and 
sauce  to  each  person.  The  skeleton  should  be  left 
entire  on  the  platter. 

If  the  fish  has  been  baked  in  the  usual  way  and 
placed  on  the  platter  on  its  side,  cut  across  through 
to  the  backbone,  but  not  through  it,  and  serve,  appor- 
tioning as  may  be  desired.  Slip  the  knife  under  and 
remove  the  portion  from  the  bone.  When  the  fish  is 
all  removed  from  the  top,  remove  the  backbone,  and 
then  divide  the  lower  portion. 

SCALLOPED  DISHES,  MEAT  PIES,  ENTREES,  ETC. 

Meats  and  fish  which  have  the  sauce  on  the  same 
dish  require  special  care  in  serving,  that  they  may 
present  a  neat  rather  than  a  sloppy  appearance  on  the 
plate.  A  drop  of  gravy  on  the  edge  of  the  plate  will 
offend  a  fastidious  taste. 

Scalloj^ed  Dishes^  or  anything  with  a  crust  of 
crumbs,  should  be  served  with  a  spoon. 

Meat  Pies,  with  a  pastry  crust,  require  a  broad 
knife  and  spoon.  Put  the  portion  on  the  plate  neatly, 
with  the  crust  or  browned  side  up. 

Poached  Eggs,  Quails,  and  other  Meats  on  Toast. 
A  broad  knife  should  be  used  in  helping  to  these 
dishes.  Take  up  the  toast  carefully,  and  lay  it  on 
the  plate  without  displacing  the  Qgg  or  bird. 


42  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

SALADS. 

The  most  tasteful  way  of  arranging  meat-salads 
or  fish-salads  is  with  whole,  fresh,  lettuce-leaves.  Put 
two  or  more  leaves  together  on  the  platter,  and  in  the 
nest  or  dish  thus  made  lay  a  spoonful  of  the  salad, 
with  the  Mayonnaise  on  the  top.  In  serving,  slip  the 
spoon  or  broad  knife  under  the  leaves  and  keep  them 
in  place  with  the  fork.  Put  the  salad  on  the  plate 
carefully,  in  the  same  position,  not  tipped  over.  Or 
you  may  have  a  border  of  fresh  lettuce-leaves  in  the 
salad-dish.  With  the  fork  lay  one  or  two  leaves  on 
the  plate,  and  then  put  a  spoonful  of  salad  on  the 
leaves.  In  this  way  each  person  has  the  Mayonnaise 
on  the  top ;  the  lettuce  is  underneath  and  fresh  and 
crisp,  instead  of  wilted,  as  it  would  be  if  all  of  it  were 
mixed  with  the  salad. 

VEGETABLES. 

In  serving  vegetables,  take  up  a  neat,  rounding 
spoonful.  Lay  them  on  the  bottom  of  the  plate,  not 
on  the  rim  or  edge.  Where  there  are  several  kinds, 
do  not  let  them  touch  each  other  on  the  plate. 

Serve,  on  separate  dlshes^fritters  with  a  sweet  sauce, 
peas,  tomatoes,  or  any  vegetable  with  much  liquid. 

Asparagus  on  Toast  is  a  dish  that  one  often  sees 
served  very  awkwardly.  Use  a  square  or  rectangular 
platter  rather  than  one  narrow  at  the  ends. 

The  bread  for  the  toast  should  be  cut  long  and 
narrow,  rather  than  square,  and  should  be  laid,  not 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  43 

lengthwise,  but  across  the  platter.  Lay  the  asparagus 
in  the  same  direction,  the  tips  all  at  the  farther  side. 
Put  the  knife,  which  should  be  broad  and  long,  under 
the  toast,  and  keep  the  asparagus  in  place  with  the 
fork.  You  will  find  it  much  easier  to  serve  than 
when  arranged  in  the  usual  way. 

Macaroni  as  often  prepared  is  another  dish  which  it 
is  not  easy  to  serve  neatly.  Always  break  or  cut  it 
into  pieces  less  than  two  inches  long,  before  cooking, 
or  before  it  is  sent  to  the  table. 

In  serving  sweet  corn  on  the  cob,  provide  finger- 
bowls,  or  a  small  doily  to  use  in  holding  the  ear  of 
corn. 

SOUPS. 

One  ladleful  of  soup  is  sufficient  for  each  plate.  It 
is  quite  an  art  to  take  up  a  ladleful  and  pour  it  into 
the  soup-plate  without  dropping  any  on  the,  edge  of 
the  tureen  or  plate,  and  it  requires  a  steady  hand  to 
pass  the  plate  without  slopping  the  soup  up  on  the 
rim.  Dip  the  ladle  into  the  soup,  take  it  up,  and  when 
the  drop  has  fallen  from  the  bottom  of  it,  lift  it  over 
quickly  but  empty  it  slowly. 

Croutons  and  crackers  lose  their  crispness  if  put 
into  the  tureen  with  the  soup,  and  should  therefore  be 
passed  separately. 

TEA  AND  COFFEE. 

Much  has  been  written  on  the  importance  of  serving 
neatly  the  various  drinks  for  an  invalid.    But  careful 


44  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

service  is  equally  essential  at  the  daily  home  table. 
It  is  mistaken  generosity  to  fill  the  cup  so  full  that 
when  sugar  and  cream  are  added,  the  liquid  will  spill 
over  into  the  saucer.  One  should  never  be  compelled 
to  clean  the  bottom  of  the  cup  on  the  edge  of  the 
saucer,  or  on  the  napkin,  to  keep  the  liquid  from 
dripping  on  the  cloth. 

In  serving  tea  and  coffee,  ascertain  the  tastes  of 
those  at  the  table  as  to  sugar  and  cream.  Put  the 
cream  and  sugar  in  the  cup,  and  an  extra  block  of 
sugar  in  the  saucer ;  pour  in  the  liquid  until  the  cup 
is  three  fourths  full.  Where  there  are  no  servants  to 
wait  on  the  table,  this  way  makes  less  confusion  than 
to  pass  the  sugar  and  cream  to  each  person. 

Always  provide  a  pitcher  of  boiling  hot  water  and 
a  slop-bowl.  In  cold  weather,  pour  hot  water  into  the 
cups  to  warm  them ;  then  turn  it  into  the  bowl.  In 
serving  a  second  time,  rinse  the  inside  of  the  cup  with 
hot  water  before  filling. 


PIES. 

It  was  formerly  considered  necessary  to  divide  a 
pie  with  mathematical  exactness  into  quarters  or 
sixths.  A  better  way  is  to  cut  out  one  piece  of  the 
usual  size  and  offer  it,  and  then  if  less  be  desired,  cut 
off  such  portions  as  may  be  needed. 

In  serving  a  pie,  always  use  a  fork  with  the  knife. 

Pies  with  no  undercrust  are  more  easily  served  with 
a  broad  knife  or  a  triangular  knife  made  expressly 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  45 

for  pies.  For  serving  berry  and  juicy  fruit  pies,  a 
spoon  also  may  be  needed.  Where  two  or  three  kinds 
are  served,  help  to  very  small  portions  of  each,  even 
if  it  be  at  a  Thanksgiving  dinner. 

It  is  presuming  on  the  capacity  of  the  common- 
sized  plate,  and  it  is  an  insult  to  the  human  stomach, 
to  offer  any  one  three  sixths  of  a  pie  after  a  dinner  of 
the  usual  courses. 

PUDDINGS. 

Hot  puddings  of  a  soft  consistency  should  be  served 
with  a  spoon ;  sometimes  a  fork  also  is  needed.  With 
the  edge  of  the  spoon  cut  through  the  brown  crust 
in  a  semicircle,  slip  the  spoon  under,  and  take  up 
a  spoonful ;  slip  it  off  on  the  plate,  leaving  it  right 
side  up. 

Take  special  case  to  serve  temptingly  anything 
with  a  meringue. 


MOULDS  OF  PUDDING,  CREAMS,  CHARLOTTE  RUSSE, 
ICE-CREAM,   ETC. 

Anything  stiff  enough  to  be  moulded  should  be  cut 
in  slices  from  three  fourths  of  an  inch  to  an  inch 
thick ;  the  wider  slices  in  oval-shaped  moulds  may 
be  divided  through  the  middle.  A  broad  silver  knife 
with  a  raised  edge  is  very  convenient  to  use  in  serving 
Bavarian  Cream,  Ice-Creams,  and  Charlottes. 


46  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 


FRUIT  AND  NUTS. 


A  pair  of  grape  scissors  should  be  laid  on  the  fruit- 
dish  to  use  in  dividing  large  bunches  of  grapes  or 
raisins ;  but  a  nut-cracker  is  too  suggestive  of  hotel 
life  to  be  acceptable  on  the  home  table.  Crack  the 
nuts  before  they  are  sent  to  the  table.  Salt  should 
be  served  with  the  nuts. 

Pass  oranges,  apples,  pears,  peaches,  and  bananas 
in  the  fruit-dish,  to  allow  each  person  the  opportunity 
of  choice. 

Watermelon.  Before  serving,  cut  a  slice  from  each 
end.  Make  incisions  through  the  middle  in  the  form 
of  the  letter^  V,  separate  the  parts,  and  place  each  in 
an  upright  position.  Cut  through  the  divisions,  and 
serve  one  section  to  each  person. 

Cantaloupes,  if  small,  are  sometimes  served  cut  in 
halves.  If  large,  divide  from  end  to  end  in  nature's 
lines  of  depression. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  47 


THE  THICKNESS  OF  SLICES. 

By  "  very  thin  slices  of  meat "  we  mean  slices  less 
than  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick. 

"  Thin  slices "  are  from  one  eighth  of  an  inch  to 
three  sixteenths  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

Slices  of  "  medium  thickness  "  are  one  quarter  of 
an  inch. 

Bread  for  dinner  should  be  cut  in  slices  one  inch 
and  a  half  thick,  and  each  slice  should  be  divided 
across  into  three  or  four  long  pieces,  according  to  the 
width  of  the  slice. 

For  tea,  cut  slices  three  eighths  of  an  inch  thick, 
and  for  toast,  one  quarter  of  an  inch. 

Thick  loaves  of  cake  should  be  cut  in  slices  from 
three  fourths  of  an  inch  to  an  inch  thick,  and  divided 
once.  Cut  loaves  of  medium  thickness  in  pieces  as 
broad  as  the  cake  is  thick,  and  divide  them  once. 
Thin  sheets  of  cake  should  be  cut  in  rectangular 
pieces  twice  as  broad  as  the  cake  is  thick.  Then  di- 
vide once,  or  even  twice,  if  the  sheet  be  very  wide.' 
Layer  cakes  baked  in  round  pans  are  usually  divided 
into  triangular  pieces ;  but  they  are  less  suggestive  of 
baker's  Washington  pie,  which  is  so  offensively  com- 
mon, if  the  edges  be  trimmed  in  such  a  way  as  to  leave 
a  square.  Then  cut  this  square  into  smaller  squares 
or  rectangles. 


48  CARVING  AND   SERVING. 


UTENSILS  FOR  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

In  any  first-class  cutlery  store  you  will  find  knives 
for  each  special  kind  of  carving.  If  your  purse  will 
permit  the  indulgence,  it  will  be  convenient  to  have 
a  breakfast-carver,  a  slicer,  a  jointer,  a  game-carver, 
and  a  pair  of  game-scissors.  But  if  you  can  afford  to 
have  only  one,  you  will  find  a  medium-sized  meat- 
carver  the  knife  best  adapted  to  all  varieties  of  carv- 
ing. The  blade  should  be  about  nine  inches  long  and 
one  inch  and  a  quarter  wide,  slightly  curved,  and 
tapering  to  a  point. 

The  fork  should  have  two  slender  curving  tines 
about  three  eighths  of  an  inch  apart  and  two  and  a 
half  inches  long,  and  should  have  a  guard. 

A  breakfast  or  steak  carver  is  of  the  same  general 
shape,  but  the  handle  is  smaller,  and  the  blade  is  six 
or  seven  inches  long.  A  slicer  for  roasts  has  a  wide, 
straight  blade,  twelve  inches  long,  and  rounded  in- 
stead of  pointed  at  the  end.  This  is  especially  con- 
venient for  carving  thin  slices  from  any  large  roasts,  or 
other  varieties  of  solid  meat.  The  width  of  the  blade 
helps  to  steady  the  meat,  and  its  great  length  enables 
one  to  cut  witli  a  single,  long,  smooth  stroke  through 
the  entire  surface.  With  a  knife  having  a  short  blade 
a  sort  of  sawing  motion  would  be  made,  and  the  slice 
would  be  jagged.  As  there  are  no  joints  to  separate, 
a  point  on  the  blade  is  unnecessary. 

A  jointer  is  another  form  of  carver,  useful  where 


CARVING  AND  SERVING.  49 

the  joints  are  so  large  or  so  difficult  to  separate  that 
considerable  strength  is  required.  The  handle  has  a 
crook  or  guard  on  the  end  to  enable  the  carver  to 
grasp  it  more  securely  and  use  all  the  strength 
necessary. 

A  game-carver  has  a  small,  narrow,  pointed  blade  ; 
but  the  shape  and  length  of  the  handle  is  the  distin- 
guishing feature.  The  handle  should  be  long  enough 
to  reach  from  the  tip  of  the  forefinger  to  an  inch 
beyond  the  back  side  of  the  hand,  so  that  the  edge 
of  the  hand  about  an  inch  above  the  wrist  rests 
against  the  handle  of  the  carver.  In  dividing  a  diffi- 
cult joint,  the  manipulation  should  be  made,  not  by 
turning  the  hand,  but  by  turning  the  knife  with  the 
fingers.  In  this  way  the  position  of  the  point  of  the 
blade  can  be  more  easily  changed  as  the  joint  may 
require.  The  handle  of  the  carving-knife  supports 
the  hand  of  the  carver. 

Game-scissors  have  handles  like  scissors ;  the  two 
short  blades  are  quite  deeply  curved,  something  like 
the  blade  of  a  pruning-knife,  making  the  cutting 
power  greater.  This  enables  the  person  using  them 
to  cut  through  quite  large  bones  in  tough  joints  which 
would  otherwise  be  quite  difficult  to  separate. 

Another  form  of  jointer  has  two  blades,  one  shorter 
than  the  other,  and  a  round  handle  divided  the  en- 
tire length,  with  a  spring  in  the  end  next  the  blade. 
When  the  handle  is  closed,  the  blades  are  together 
and  the  outer  edge  of  the  longer  blade  is  used  like  a 
knife  for  cutting  the  meat.     Bv  opening  the  handle 


50  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 

the  curving  edges  of  the  blades  are  used  like  scissors 
for  cutting  the  bones. 

There  are  various  styles  of  steels  or  knife-sharp- 
eners, but  the  one  now  in  my  possession  is  the  best  I 
have  ever  seen. 

It  is  a  four-sided  bar  of  steel,  about  three  eighths  of 
an  inch  wide  and  thick,  and  eight  inches  long,  liaving 
the  four  sides  deeply  grooved,  thus  making  the  edges 
very  prominent.  These  edges  are  so  sharp  that  but 
little  pressure  of  the  knife  on  the  steel  is  required. 
The  handle  has  a  large  guard  to  protect  the  left  hand 
from  the  edge  of  the  blade. 

But  few  people  know  how  to  use  a  steel  properly. 
It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  process,  —  so  easy  to  a 
natural  mechanic  and  so  awkward  to  others,  —  or  to 
instruct  one  in  the  knack  of  it,  by  mere  description. 
Hold  the  steel  firmly  in  the  left  hand.  Let  the  edge 
of  the  knife  near  the  handle  rest  on  the  steel,  the  back 
of  the  knife  raised  slightly  at  an  angle  of  about  30°. 
Draw  the  knife  along  lightly  but  steadily,  always  at 
the  same  angle,  the  entire  length  of  the  blade.  Then 
pass  the  knife  under  the  steel  and  draw  the  other  sur- 
face along  the  opposite  edge  of  the  steel,  from  the 
handle  to  the  point,  at  the  same  angle.  Repeat  these 
alternate  motions  the  entire  length  of  the  blade,  not 
on  the  point  merely,  until  you  have  an  edge. 

Some  persons  prefer  to  turn  the  knife  over,  drawing 
it  first  from  the  left  hand  and  then  toward  it,  sharp- 
ening each  surface  alternately  on  the  same  edge  of 
the  steel.     This  is  more  difficult  to  do,  as  you  cannot 


CAEVING  AND  SERVING.  51 

SO  surely  keep  the  blade  at  the  same  angle,  —  and  this 
is  the  most  important  point.  If  held  at  any  other 
than  the  proper  angle,  either  no  edge  is  made,  or  it  is 
taken  off  as  soon  as  obtained. 

It  is  bewildering,  if  one  has  any  intention  of  buy- 
ing, to  examine  the  assortment  of  spoons,  knives, 
forks,  etc.,  displayed  at  the  silversmith's. 

There  are  ladles  for  soups,  sauces,  gravy,  and  cream  ; 
shovels  for  sugar  and  salt,  and  scoops  for  cheese  ; 
tongs  for  sugar,  pickles,  olives,  and  asparagus  ;  spoons 
for  sugar,  jelly,  fruit,  sauces,  salads,  vegetables,  and 
macaroni ;  slicers  for  ice-cream,  cake,  and  jelly  ;  knives 
for  fish,  pie,  cake,  and  fruit ;  forks  for  fish,  oysters, 
pickles,  olives,  salad,  and  asparagus ;  scissors  for 
grapes  and  raisins  ;  crackers  and  picks  for  nuts  ;  and 
rests  for  the  carving  knife  and  fork.  Some  of  these 
are  really  useful ;  some  as  little  so  as  many  of  the 
hundred  and  one  novelties  designed  particularly  for 
wedding  gifts.  But  in  neat  and  careful  serving  it  is 
essential  to  have  a  soup-ladle,  a  gravy  or  sauce  ladle, 
a  pair  of  tongs  or  shells  for  block  sugar,  a  slender- 
tined  silver  fork  for  pickles,  a  plentiful  supply  of  large 
and  medium-sized  spoons,  a  carving-rest,  a  crumb- 
scraper,  and  at  least  one  broad  silver  knife  and  fork, 
which  if  occasion  requires  may  do  duty  at  several 
courses. 


52  CARVING  AND  SERVING. 


LAST  BUT  NOT  LEAST. 

In  offering  a  second  portion  of  anything  do  not  re- 
mind one  that  he  has  already  been  helped. 

"  Can't  I  give  you  another  piece  of  meat  or  pie  ?  " 
"  Won't  you  have  some  more  tea  or  pudding  ?  "  Ex- 
pressions like  these  are  frequently  heard. 

It  is  in  far  better  taste  to  say,  "  Will  you  have 
some  hot  coffee  ? "  "  May  I  give  you  some  of  the 
salad  ?  "     "  Let  me  help  you  to  this  choice  portion." 

We  trust  none  of  our  readers  Avill  regard  this 
suggestion  as  trivial.  For,  concerning  kindness,  we 
know  that  perfection  is  no  trifle.  It  is  the  essence  of 
that  second  commandment  which  we  are  divinely 
told  is  like  "  the  first  of  all  the  commandments ; " 
and  it  cannot  be  attained  without  assiduous  atten- 
tion to  all  the  minor  words  and  the  common  acts  of 
life. 


"Among  all  the  Cook-Books  this  will  certainly  take  its 
place  as  one  of  the  very  best.'*  —  The  Christian  Union. 


MRS.    LINCOLN'S 

BOSTON    COOK-BOOK. 

WHAT  TO  DO  AND  WHAT  NOT  TO  DO 
IN  COOKING. 

By   MRS.    D.    A.    LINCOLN, 

OF   THE   BOSTON   COOKING-SCHOOL. 

IViik   50  Illustrations.     One  handsome  i2tno   volume  of  600  pages,  neatly 
half  bound.    Price  J^2.oo. 


A  SELECTION  PEOM  SOME  OF  THE  MANY  NOTICES  BY  THE  PRESS. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln,  nothing  daunted  by  the  legion  of  cook-books  already  in  existence, 
thinks  there  is  room  for  one  more.  Her  handsome  and  serviceable-looking  volume 
seems  to  contain  everything  essential  to  a  complete  understanding  of  the  culinary  art. 
The  Introduction  of  thirty-five  pages  discusses  such  subjects  as  cooking  in  general, 
fire,  fuel,  management  of  a  stove,  the  various  processes  of  boiling,  stewing,  baking, 
flying,  roasting,  and  broiling,  with  full  explanation  of  the  chemical  theory  underlying 
each  and  distinguishing  them  ;  also  hints  on  measuring  and  mixing,  with  tables  ot 
weights,  measures,  and  proportions ;  of  time  in  cooking  various  articles,  and  of 
average  cost  of  material.  One  who  can  learn  nothing  from  this  very  instructive 
Introduction  must  be  well-informed  indeed.  Following  this  comes  an  elaborate  and 
exhaustive  chapter  on  bread-making  in  all  its  steps  and  phases.  To  this  important 
topic  some  seventy  pages  are  devoted.  And  so  on  through  the  whole  range  of  viands. 
Exactness,  plainness,  thoroughness,  seem  to  characterize  all  the  author's  teachings. 
No  point  is  neglected,  and  directions  are  given  for  both  necessary  and  luxurious 
dishes.  There  are  chapters  on  cooking  for  invalids,  the  dining-room,  care  of  kitchen 
utensils,  etc.  There  is  also  a  valuable  outline  of  study  for  teachers  taking  up  the 
chemical  properties  of  food,  and  the  physiological  functions  of  digestion,  absorption, 
nutrition,  etc.  Add  the  miscellaneous  questions  for  examination,  the  topics  and 
illustrations  for  lectures  on  cookery,  list  of  utensils  needed  in  a  cooking-school,  an 
explanation  of  foreign  terms  used  in  cookery,  a  classified  and  an  alphabetical  index, 
—  and  you  have  what  must  be  considered  as  complete  a  work  of  its  kind  as  has  yet 
appeared."  —  Mirror,  Springfield^  III. 


"  In  answer  to  the  question,  *  What  does  cookery  mean  ? '  Mr.  Ruskin  says  :  *  It 
means  the  knowledge  of  Circe  and  Medea,  and  of  Calypso  and  of  Helen,  and  of 
Rebekah  and  of  all  the  Queens  of  Sheba.  It  means  knowledge  of  all  fruits  and 
balms  and  spices,  and  of  all  that  is  healing  and  sweet  in  fields  and  groves,  and  savory 
to  meals ;  it  means  carefulness  and  inventiveness,  and  readiness  of  appliances ;  it 
means  the  economy  of  your  great-grandmothers  and  the  science  of  modem  chem- 
istry j  it  means  much  tasting  and  no  wasting ;  it  means  English  thoroughness,  and 
French  art,  and  American  hospitality.'  It  is  not  extravagant  to  say  that  as  far  as 
these  mythological,  biblical,  and  practical  requirements  can  be  met  by  one  weak 
woman,  they  are  met  by  Mrs.  Lincoln.  And  to  the  varied  and  extensive  range  of 
knowledge  she  adds  an  acquaintance  with  Milton  and  with  Confucius,  as  shown  by 
the  apt  quotations  on  her  titlepage.  The  book  is  intended  to  satisfy  the  needs  and 
wants  of  the  experienced  housekeeper,  the  tyro,  and  of  the  teacher  in  a  cooking- 
school.  In  its  receipts,  in  its  tables  of  time  and  proportion,  in  its  clear  and  minute 
directions  about  every  detail  of  kitchen  and  dining-room,  it  has  left  unanswered  few 
questions  which  may  suggest  themselves  to  the  most  or  the  least  intelligent."  —  TJie 
Nation. 

*'  Mrs.  Lincoln's  '  Boston  Cook-Book  '  is  no  mere  amateur  compilation,  much  less 
an  omnium  gatherum  of  receipts.  Its  title  does  scant  justice  to  it,  for  it  is  not  so 
much  a  cook-book  as  a  dietetic  and  culinary  cyclopaedia.  Mrs.  Lincoln  is  a  lady  of 
culture  and  practical  tastes,  who  has  made  the  fine  art  of  cuisine  the  subject  of  pro- 
fessional study  and  teaching.  In  this  book  she  has  shown  her  literary  skill  and 
intelligence,  as  well  as  her  expertness  as  a  practical  cook  and  teacher  of  cookery. 
It  is  full  of  interest  and  instruction  for  any  one,  though  one  should  never  handle  a 
skillet  or  know  the  feeling  of  dough.  Nothing  in  the  way  of  explanation  is  left 
unsaid.  And  for  a  young  housekeeper,  it  is  a  complete  outfit  for  the  culinary  depart- 
ment of  her  duties  and  domain.  There  are  many  excellent  side-hints  as  to  the  nature, 
history,  and  hygiene  of  food,  which  are  not  often  found  in  such  books ;  and  the 
Indexes  are  of  the  completest  and  most  useful  kind.  We  find  ourselves  quite  enthu- 
siastic over  the  work,  and  feel  like  saying  to  the  accomplished  authoress,  '  Many 
daughters  have  done  virtuously,  but  thou  excellest  them  all.'  "  —  Rev.  Dr.  Zabriskie, 
in  Christian  Intelligencer. 

"  Among  all  the  cook-books,  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln's  '  Boston  Cook-Book  '  will  cer- 
tainly take  its  place  as  one  of  the  very  best.  It  is  published  and  arranged  in  a  ver) 
convenient  and  attractive  form,  and  the  style  in  which  it  is  written  has  a  certain 
literary  quality  which  will  tempt  those  who  are  not  interested  in  recipes  and  cooking 
to  peruse  its  pages.  The  recipes  are  practical,  and  give  just  those  facts  which  are 
generally  omitted  from  books  of  this  sort,  to  the  discouragement  of  the  housekeeper, 
and  frequently  to  the  lamentable  disaster  and  failure  of  h^r  plans.  Mrs.  Lincoln  has 
laid  a  large  number  of  people  under  obligation,  and  puts  into  her  book  a  large  amount 
of  general  experience  in  the  difficult  and  delicate  art  of  cooking.  The  book  is  admi- 
rably arranged,  and  is  supplied  with  the  most  perfect  indexes  we  have  ever  seen  in 
any  work  of  the  kind." —  The  Christian  Union. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln  has  written  a  cook-book  ;  really  written  one,  not  made  merely  a 
compilation  of  receipts,  —  that  sort  of  mechanical  work  any  one  can  do  who  has 
patience  enough  to  search  for  the  rules,  and  system  enough  to  arrange  them.  Mrs. 
Lincoln's  book  is  written  out  of  the  experience  of  life,  both  as  a  housekeeper  and  a 
teacher.  Her  long  experience  as  principal  of  the  Boston  Cooking-School  has  enabled 
her  to  find  out  just  what  it  is  that  people  most  want  and  need  to  know.     I  have  no 


hesitation  In  recommending  Mrs.  Lincoln's  as  the  best  cook-book,  in  all  respects,  ol 
any  I  have  seen.  It  is  exactly  fitted  for  use  as  a  family  authority,  in  that  it  is  the 
work,  not  of  a  theorizer,  but  of  a  woman  who  knows  what  she  is  talking  about.  It  is 
the  very  common-sense  of  the  science  of  cookery." — Extracts  from  Sallie  Joy 
White's  letters  in  Philadelphia  and  Portland  />a/>ers. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln's  *  Boston  Cook-Book '  is  a  characteristically  American,  not  to  say 
Yankee,  production.  Boston  productions  are  nothing  if  not  profound,  and  even  this 
cookery  manual  must  begin  with  a  definition,  a  pinch  of  philology,  and  the  culinary 
chemistry  of  heat,  cold,  water,  air,  and  drying.  .  .  .  But  a  touch  of  the  blue-stocking 
has  never  been  harmful  to  cookery.  This  book  is  as  deft  as  it  is  fundamental.  It  is 
so  perfectly  and  generously  up  to  everything  culinary,  that  it  cannot  help  spilling  over 
a  little  into  sciences  and  philosophy.  It  is  the  trimmest,  best  arranged,  best  illus- 
trated, most  intelligible,  manual  of  cookery  as  a  high  art,  and  as  an  economic  art,  that 
has  appeared."  —  Independent. 

*'  It  is  a  pleasure  to  be  able  to  give  a  man  or  a  book  unqualified  praise.  We  have 
no  fear  in  saying  that  Mrs.  Lincoln's  v/ork  is  the  best  and  most  practical  cook-book  of 
its  kind  that  has  ever  appeared.  It  does  not  emanate  from  the  chef  of  some  queen's 
or  nobleman's  cuisine,  but  it  tells  in  the  most  simple  and  practical  and  exact  way 
those  little  things  which  women  ought  to  know,  but  have  generally  to  learn  by  sad 
experience.  It  is  a  book  which  ought  to  be  in  every  household."  —  Philadelphia 
Press. 

"  The  *  Boston  Cook-Book '  has  a  special  recommendation.  The  author,  Mrs. 
Lincoln,  was  early  trained  to  a  love  for  all  household  work.  That  precious  experi- 
ence is  a  thing  for  which  a  cooking-school  is  no  manner  of  substitute,  while  it  is  just 
the  thing  for  professional  training  to  build  upon,  widen,  and  correct.  Mrs.  Lincoln's 
book  is  practical,  and  though  there  is  much  of  theory,  it  gives  proof  of  being  based 
less  upon  theory  and  much  upon  experiment.  The  book  is  handsomely  gotten 
up,  and  will  ere  long  attest  its  usefulness  in  better  food  better  prepared,  and  there- 
fore  better  digested,  in  many  homes."  —  Leader, 

"  It  is  the  embodiment  of  the  actual  experience  and  observation  of  a  woman 
who  has  learned  and  employed  superior  domestic  methods.  It  is  the  outcome  of 
Mrs.  Lincoln's  conscientious  and  successful  labors  for  the  development  of  practical 
cooking.  It  is  to  be  recommended  for  its  usefulness  in  point  of  receipts  of  moderate 
cost  and  quantity,  in  its  variety,  its  comprehensiveness,  and  for  the  excellence  of  its 
typographical  form."  —  Boston  Transcript. 

"The  instruction  given  by  Mrs.  Lincoln  at  the  Boston  Cooking-School  is  so 
widely  and  favorably  known  for  its  thoroughness  and  attention  to  scientific  and  eco- 
nomical principles,  that  a  cook-book  embodying  these  ideas  and  principles  will  be 
considered  a  great  gain  to  the  housekeeping  department.  In  care  and  excellence,  her 
book  illustrates  the  modem  advance  in  home  cookmg."  —  Boston  Journal. 

"  The  book  needs  no  other  raison  d?ttre  than  its  own  excellence.  Every  house- 
keeper in  the  land  would  be  fortunate  to  have  upon  her  shelf  a  copy  of  Mrs.  Lincoln's 
work."  —  Boston  Courier. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln's  book  contains  in  one  volume  what  most  other  cook-books  contain  in 
three ;  and  its  directions  are  always  terse  and  to  the  point.  It  is  a  thoroughly  practi- 
cal book,  and  teaches  us  all  how  to  live  well  and  wisely  every  day  in  the  year."  —  The 


"  The  most  valuable  feature  of  Mrs.  Lincoln's  Cook-Book  Is,  without  doubt,  the 
application  of  scientific  knowledge  to  the  culinary  art.  Mrs.  Lincoln  has  the  gift  oi 
teaching,  and  its  use  in  this  connection  is  worthy  of  the  warmest  commendation.  She 
has  made  the  necessary  explanations  in  a  very  Jucid  and  succinct  manner.  To  the 
thousands  of  intelligent  housekeepers  who  recognize  the  importance  ot  the  art  of  the 
kitchen,  this  book  will  be  a  boon."  —  Eclectic. 

"  The  book,  although  at  first  sight  it  seems  no  larger  than  other  cook-books,  has 
over  five  hundred  pages,  and  takes  up  the  minutest  details  of  housekeeping.  Having 
examined  all  the  standard  cook-books  now  in  the  market,  this  seems  superior  fb  all. 
There  is  so  much  in  this  that  is  not  found  in  other  cook-books,  that  it  is  equal  to  a 
small  library  in  itself."  —  Extracts  Jrom  Anna  Barrotu's  letters  in  Oxford  and 
Portland  papers, 

"  We  have  at  last  from  Boston  something  better  than  the  Emersonian  philosophy 
or  the  learnmg  of  Harvard.  —  something  that  will  contribute  more  to  human  health, 
and  consequently  to  human  happiness  ;  and  that  is,  a  good,  practical  cook-book,  with 
illustrations.  .  .  .  We  commend  Mrs.  Lincoln's  volume  heartily,  and  wish  )t  might 
make  a  part  of  every  bridal  outfit." —  The  Churchman. 

"  For  plain,  practical,  and  at  the  same  time  scientific  treatment  of  a  difficult  sub- 
ject, commend  us  to  Mrs.  Lincoln's  '  Boston  Cook-Book.'  No  better  book  has  appeared 
':o  leep  pace  with  the  wholesome  advance  of  culinary  art,  as  practised  in  the  common- 
cense  cooking-school."  —  Toledo. 

"  It  combines  whatever  is  best  in  those  which  have  gone  before,  with  improvements 
and  refinements  peculiar  to  itself.  It  is  so  complete  and  admirable  in  its  various 
departments,  that  it  seems  to  fill  every  requirement.  How  soon  it  will  be  rivalled  or 
superseded  it  is  unsafe  to  predict ;  but  for  the  present  we  may  commend  it  as  in  every 
respect  unsurpassed."  —  The  Dial. 

"  The  volume  is  a  compound  of  information  on  every  household  matter ;  well 
arranged,  clearly  written,  and  attractively  made  up.  Of  the  many  valuable  cook-books, 
not  one  better  deserves  a  place,  or  is  more  likely  to  secure  and  hold  it."  —  Helen  Camp^ 
bell. 

"  The  possession  of  your  cook-book  has  made  me  quite  beside  myself.  I  prize  it 
•ighly,  not  only  for  personal  reasons,  but  because  of  its  real  worth.  I  feel  so  safe  with 
.♦•  as  a  guide,  and  if  I  abide  by  its  rules  and  laws  no  harm  can  befall  me."  —  Adalina 
•/tiler ^  a  former  pupil^  Atlanta^  Georgia. 

<'  One  need  only  glance  over  the  pages  of  Mrs  Lincoln's  Cook-Book  to  realize  the 
fact  of  her  aptness  in  scholarship."  —  Alta^  San  Francisco. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln  brings  not  only  the  fruits  of  a  long  experience  to  the  preparation  of 
her  work,  but  a  great  amount  of  scientific  research,  so  that  the  book  is  really  a  mine 
of  information  in  its  way."  —  The  Post,  Washington. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  treatises  on  cooking  and  housework  that  we  have 
ever  read.  It  contains  much  useful  information  to  the  general  reader,  and  is  one  we 
would  recommend  to  every  housekeeper."  —  Saratoga  Sentinel. 


Mrs.  Lincoln's  Boston  Cook-Book  is  kept  on  sale  by  all  booksellers  every- 
where. If  you  cannot  readily  obtain  it,  enclose  the  amot*m^  $2.00,  directh 
to  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln,  WoUaston,  Mass.,  or  to  the  Pubhshers,  wht 
will  mail  it,  postpaid. 

ROBERTS    BROTHERS.   Boston. 


IC  93846 


417864 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CAUFORNIA  LIBRARY 


